In this case, the finished product does need to be absolutely unblemished. This can also be accomplished on scored wood. Bring the scored section in a small amount, so that it is concealed underneath the wood being joined.
Scoring the wood can be a very good idea, but sometimes not. It depends on the nature of the adhesive. Some adhesives work better with scored wood, some work better with a tight fit. In general, this practice speaks more to the strength of the finished joint than to the alignment problems while the glue is wet; I have had scored joints slide and reposition themselves after having been clamped. This is most unfortunate.
My solution: Drive a fine wire brad about 1/8" (3mm) into the first piece of wood. Use a pair of diagonal cutters (wire cutters) to trim it to a height of 1/16" (1.5mm) above the wood surface. Do not use the specialty "flush cutting" wire cutters. Use the cheaper ones that leave a sharp point on the protruding end of the wire brad. Apply glue to the wood and squeeze the two pieces together. If you squeeze it tightly enough to drive the brad into the opposing wood surface, this will hold the wood together while you apply the clamp (an added bonus).
In my case, I need to guard against lateral movement but rotation is not a problem. If you also need to protect against rotation, use two wire brads. You will then need to apply twice the force when squeezing the wood together. You can reduce the force needed by using the finest wire brads available (smallest wire diameter).
In some ways, this is much like driving a nail bidirectionally, from the inside surfaces outward. This is invisible in the finished product.
PS -
I was not certain any Chi-fans would be interested in this. The varied background of Chihuahua participants continues to amaze me.
